PARIS — In June, the Salon International de la Lingerie was back in Paris for an in-person event following a two-year absence due to the pandemic.
While brands showed their latest collections and innovations in swimwear and lingerie, we spoke to Cecile Vivier, marketing director of the show, about the consequences of the pandemic on these two sectors in France, and the trends that will soon be heading to dresser drawers.
There are many reports and other indications suggesting that the pandemic dealt a fatal blow to the bra. Is that true?
Even before the first lockdown, there was already a rather significant ‘no bra’ movement, and there was already a lot of discussion about comfortable, easy-to-wear pieces, one size fits all, in both lingerie and swimwear. This idea of women freeing up their bodies and the body positive movement, don’t necessarily date from the pandemic, even though the pandemic amplified the phenomenon. There was in fact an impact on bra sales. It was all buoyed by the neo-feminism currently seen in lingerie, which right now translates into a look and silhouette that are still sexy but with a spirit of emancipation. Women want to enjoy their bodies from every angle, because this becomes a means of expression. Ultra-sexy lingerie is also going to make a big comeback, with the return of the thong and low-cut styles.
Should we expect an end to the emphasis on comfort?
Not necessarily, because now that women today have acquired this comfort, it’s something that’s established. But women’s sexuality has been demystified, there are no longer any taboos about it. And so in a sense they have been liberated from it. That’s evident on social networks, there are myriad accounts that deal with subjects like masturbation, female pleasure, and menstruation, because now it’s normal to talk about these issues. And this translates into a renewed emphasis on sensuality and a desire to be seductive. We could also talk about the return of the unbridled sexuality of the 2000s, except that at that time such codes referred to the archetype of objectified woman, entirely dedicated to male pleasure. Twenty years later, this no longer has the same meaning. Women are reappropriating the codes of sexy but just for themselves.
Period underwear and swimsuits are very popular, but they are still mainly the domain of specialised brands. Are mainstream brands planning to make these types of items more accessible?
It is indeed young brands who have first arrived on the scene with such products but the major lingerie and swimwear brands are gradually becoming key players there. To give you some figures for the French market: 8 per cent of French women bought period panties during the year, and their sales reached a total of €10.8 million (RM48 million). Among these users, most of them consider turning exclusively to menstrual panties as protection. This is a growing phenomenon, and major lingerie brands, such as Chantelle and Simone Perele, have already entered this niche, even if they’re not really promoting it in campaigns. But young designers are indeed continuing to be at the forefront of this trend and are even moving into other niches, such as incontinence. These young brands are broadening their spectrum around well-being, and wish to be there for women’s changing bodies at all ages and stages.
Can we talk about lingerie now without any taboo?
Yes, indeed. Today’s lingerie is without taboos, for everyone, in all freedom, when we want, and where we want!
What are the latest innovations in terms of sustainability?
This is obviously a major theme at the show. Sustainability is no longer one aspect for consumers, it’s a prerequisite. Sustainable, recycled, or biodegradable materials, as well as all the questions regarding traceability, transparency, and packaging, are essential, and the actors of the lingerie sector are aware of it. There are tons of innovations concerning lace, cotton, accessories, etc. We’re aware that there is still a lot of progress to be made in the textile industry, especially on dyes, but sustainability is now an integral part of the Salon de la Lingerie, as well as the concerns of brands.
Lingerie is the only category of clothing that cannot be resold or donated. So what kind of solutions for reducing waste can be implemented?
Second-hand is a real topic of interest in lingerie and swimwear. There are more and more initiatives to take back swimwear and customise it into new pieces. In lingerie, brands are also starting to repair products. We make new items out of old, this could be a kind of second-hand solution. For example, the brand Yse recovers swimsuits, embroiders them, washes them, and resells them – proof that it is possible.
The trends of tomorrow are synonymous with freedom, sensuality, functionality and sustainability. Can we really bring together sexy style, period underwear and sustainability?
It’s possible to combine period underwear and sustainability, and it’s also possible to combine sexy styles and sustainability… Perhaps it’s a little more difficult to bring together the ideas of period underwear and sexiness. But brands are starting to offer different things in terms of prints, shapes and styles like shorties… To bring these three elements together, I think that brands will get creative, and show their imagination. It’s probably just a matter of time. – ETX Studio
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